Monday, March 5, 2012

Bethlehem, Temple Mound/Dome of the Rock, and Parents of Lost Children

What a day it has been, and I can't say I am able to write much after the novel and soul bearing that came out yesterday.

We were lucky enough to be able to travel into Bethlehem (A zone A fully Palestinian administered territory) and meet with the Mayor and some of his staff to get their perspectives. We heard from a 26 year old Palestinian women about her experiences and the terror she felt growing up and still feels. The overwhelming picture painted by the Mayor was that they are a peaceful people seeking a peaceful solution, and that the occupation by the Israeli's is the only issue in the conflict (note this is what he said, not my personal opinion on the matter).

We then visited the Church of the Nativity, the oldest church in the world and the site where Jesus was born and put in the manger (both of which we got to see and touch-pictures to follow). For this we had a new guide from inside the wall that separates Bethlehem (which is in the West Bank) and we had to leave our Israeli and Jewish guide Yael and guard Barki just outside the wall (as they are forbidden to enter the Palestinian territory). This too was a bit of a mental battle to hurdle thinking about how they felt having to be left outside the wall while we went it.

We were then able to rejoin Yael and Barki for a trip to the Temple Mound and the Dome of the Rock, and I have to say that Yael has really made this trip such a great learning experience. Both of these places are extremely meaningful and holy for both Judiasm and Islam and it was great to learn more about that and see the amazing site that both are. From there we had a tasty Mediterranean lunch in the Muslim quarter.

Then we visited the Western (wailing) Wall and were able to touch and put prayers into the most holy place in the world for Jews and where they say the spirit of God remains still after the destruction of the 2nd Temple Mound.

We wrapped the day up with a tour of the Knessett, the Israeli parliament. The tour was interesting, and it was not what I expected. It seemed a bit more generic than what I had thought and we saw 3 rooms, so the "tour" was really a quick show and tell.

Then one of the most beneficial part of the day was seeing the Palestinian mother who lost 2 brothers in the conflict (who she essentially mothered) and a Israeli Jew father who lost his small daughter to a suicide bomber in the conflict. To hear their stories and to see the bond, connection, friendship, and true familial love that they have developed for each other out of this shared pain was amazing. They are non-political and spreading the message that the answer is pro-solution (not pro-Israeli, not pro-Palestinian). Their group of over 600 is an amazing organization truly looking to educate all on the the experience and story of the other through narrative.

What a day, we are starting to pack a lot into our short time and tomorrow is our last full day in Israel as we head to the north the next morning then on to Tel Aviv.
So what is the change today? It is hard to put into words. I think more than anything it is that the power of the narrative and hearing the experience of others is so important. And to recognize that just when you think you have figured out a solution or where you stand there is a great chance that you will hear something that could sway you and to be open to that message. I think we all too often close our minds and believe we have all the information we need. So I would like to continue telling myself to ask questions and seek out opposite opinions and thought so I can be sure that I am making my decisions in a truly informed way and I am not letting the propaganda that is clever or heartfelt cloud by ability to think independently.